A tartan love letter
Library book magic, Dolly Parton and plaid possibilities
Just before Christmas I went to the library, which is one of favourite places to go in Manchester, and I found this brilliant book all about tartan and it gave me so many ideas I thought I would burst!
Tartan is a pattern we’ve been seeing a lot of recently, and I think it’s something more commonly associated with the winter months - cosy blankets and Christmas pyjamas.
Tartan and plaid nails have been a favourite of mine for a little while now - I actually did plaid on myself 4 times in the past year! They’ve also been really popular in December. So with all of this in mind, I thought it would be a fitting anchor to look out for as we go into the new year…
Tartan is an example of using patterns and the colour chosen to go with them as a visual language to express who a person is and, in the case of tartan, where they come from. It is a symbol of Scottish identity and heritage, and a way for Scots to affirm their identity in response to English oppression and rule. Designers Vivian Westwood and Alexander McQueen, among others, used tartan print in their collections and landmark runway shows as a way of reclaiming Scottish identity.
For a time I think tartan was seen as an outdated fashion choice - it makes me think of 80s workwear, which I do have quite an appreciation for despite it being seen as ‘bad taste’ to many. Following this thread of thought brought to mind the iconic 80s film 9 - 5, starring Dolly Parton, Jane Fonda and Lily Tomlin. The film poster not only showcases a tartan skirt that was classic of the era, but the plot of the film itself challenges outdated views of women in the workplace.
Incidentally, it was whilst playing a rhythm with her nails that Dolly came up with the theme song for 9-5! She is credited on the track as ‘Dolly on nails’. I love this video of her and Patti LaBelle talking about their friendship and how they play a tune on their nails together:
To me, Dolly represents the multi-faceted possibilities of being a woman. She is incredibly accomplished in country music, and her charity work through her Imagination Library book gifting scheme has enabled hundreds of thousands of underprivileged children access to books and reading materials. All whilst never having shied away from her love of beauty, hair and nails, disproving the dumb blonde stereotype that others have tried to place on her throughout her entire career.
Rejecting the binary labels placed on us by others can be daunting, but seeing people we admire do just that is both encouraging and important. Someone else in the music industry who has recently done this is rapper, producer and flautist (among many other things) André 3000, who to my delight also appears in the Tartan library book in a splendid plaid co-ordinated suit!
Known best for being a rapper and part of OutKast, André 3000 recently released an ambient flute album which I would personally describe as banging. I’ve been listening to it whilst creating content for my nail art account because generally, I find painting my own nails quite stressful and ambient music helps me to stay calm and focused.
This review from Pitchfork takes a look at how Andre 3000’s new album, and who he is as a person, can be another example of the possibilities available to us when we embrace our multi-faceted identities.
Above: ‘I swear, I Really Wanted To Make A “Rap Album But This Is Literally The Way The Wind Blew Me This Time’
I love that in exploring tartan for this issue, it’s put these two culturally significant people in Dolly and Andre side by side in a way I hadn’t thought of before. But there are many similarities in their approaches to life, music, and their various other pursuits with different yet equally valuable outcomes.
These coincidental connections remind me of the plaid pattern itself: it is characterised by interconnecting lines, coming from different directions to make up a fabric which creates an identity for the wearer - whether it be individual, national or beyond.
Tartan is also where my love of craft, the handmade and nail art serendipitously intersect. The pattern just transfers so well into a nail design!
I like to see the lines coming from different directions as the different parts of ourselves being given space to exist in their own right, but also showing how they can and do intersect and overlap, each element being important to the whole.
We can also see nail art itself in this way: a small detail of our self-image that contributes to how we feel about ourselves and how we carry ourselves in the wider world.
The multi-faceted symbolism of tartan and plaid reinforces how it can support our well-being to have patterns like this on our nails, serving as a reminder of all that we are and all we can be. It’s also one of the most versatile designs there is: it can be a simple one or two-colour plaid, or a full-blown tartan in striking tones. It can be fun and playful, whilst also being sophisticated and chic. And despite its simplicity, it can encompass and reflect the multiple parts of who we are.
Even though tartan is clearly not a spiral, I do think it has similar connotations in that it can be seen as a timeline (a concept explored in an earlier issue): the points at which the lines cross being the intersecting moments and experiences which make up a life. A tapestry if you will, and a reassurance that there are multiple paths and timelines at play all at once. If one area of life isn’t going too well, there are other parts that are, or that will come about as a result of this particular timeline. Tartan is a reminder of this.
A reminder that the first Spiralling Craft Club is taking place on Tuesday 9th January at 6.30pm to 8.30pm at Altogether Otherwise. I’ll be posting updates on my personal Instagram @bethanclaire 🧶
Happy New Year and thank you for reading!